Kilimanjaro- Climbing the World’s Tallest Freestanding Mountain

I have spent much of my life out in the mountains, hiking and exploring as much as I can in the US and abroad. As a young girl my dad brought me out into the wilds of Colorado, Wyoming, Utah and all over the forests of New England inspiring my love for seeing the beauty of the forests, the oceans and the mountain peaks. Since a small girl I have been hiking as much as possible, in recent years I summited the tallest mountains in Portugal, Spain and Malaysia. In 2014 my father suddenly passed away from a heart attack. Whenever I could I would head to the mountains to feel his spirit.  In just a few days I would hike Africa’s tallest mountain, carrying with me the spirit of my very own mountain man. I would be summiting on International Women’s Day with a small group of just 6 ladies including myself from around the world, knowing full well that my dad would be with me along every step.

A few mountain facts before we begin….
There are six climbing routes that vary in length to reach the summit of Kibo, we would be climbing the Machame route. This route takes 7 days from start to finish. Hiking through 5 climate zones and almost every weather pattern, it is one of the most successful routes as it gives ample time to acclimate to the altitudes while passing through beautiful and changing sceneries. More than 30,000 people attempt to climb Kilimanjaro every year and less than 50% make it to the summit. Oxygen levels at the summit of Kilimanjaro are just 9% which is slightly more than half of our normal oxygen levels of 20.9%. Adequate acclimation is the key to success. Mountain guides are required for anyone wanting to climb Kilimanjaro and there are a plethora of guiding companies to choose from. Picking a company that has been certified by KPAP is a great place to start. KPAP ensures fair wages, adequate meals and proper equipment for porters on the mountain. I chose to climb with a great company called Eco- Africa Climbing located in Moshi they are a company that gives back to the community and local schools. Their porters are paid higher wages than many other groups, as well as being fed three meals a day they make sure they are all well equipped with proper gear for the conditions.

For the 6 of us we had 21 porters and 3 guides, this includes a cook, waiter, assistant guides, tent builder, toilet cleaner and many other positions. All of them are equally important and we would not have made it without any of them. “It takes a village” That couldn’t be more true on Mt. Kilimanjaro. Some of our porters and guides had climbed more than 100 times. Some of them had been up and down the mountain for more than 10 years. For many of us, this climb was one of the most difficult experiences we would have, but for our staff it was a piece of cake. ​

Pre-Hike and Day 1 

The trail begins in the rainforest. Almost immediately we spy velvet blue monkeys playing in the trees as we hike up the road and into deeper forest. Today’s hike would take us 10km to an elevation of 3100 meters, 1210 meters of elevation gain. We begin hiking at 1:30pm, already my pack is too heavy. The guides had stressed the importance of taking just a small day pack, big enough for a camelback, snacks and your poncho. Just the necessities for the day. I had three cameras, a tripod, steady cam, a generator, solar panels and changes of clothes in a 65L backpacking bag.

The rainforest was beautiful and soon enough the road had turned into a well-maintained trail. With lush, moss-covered trees in every shape and size. I saw many plants I recognized and learned of some new ones from our knowledgeable guides. We saw wild carrots, raspberry, turnip, elephant trunk and many more species of flowering plants. I spied mice, more monkeys and a plethora of bird species as we walked. There was no rain on the trail yet, but the humidity was fierce in the warm coverings of the Montane forest. I arrived at camp just before dark, slightly behind some of the other ladies.

When I arrived, our camp was already set up with a private bathroom, hot water for washing and a hearty serving of popcorn, tea and crackers was waiting in the mess tent. Tonight we did our first of many health checks, one of the benefits of going with a great guide team. All of us had our oxygen levels and heart rate checked before we went to our tents for bed. The first night I came in at 93 percent oxygen and a resting heart rate of 65. Oxygen levels are based on 100, anyone under 80 has to be monitored and may end up having to turn back for lower altitudes until it increases to a healthy level. As I tucked in for the evening, a steady stream of rain fell on our tents that lasted into the morning hours. ​

Day 2 Machame Camp to Shira Camp 

The morning came with a break in the showers. After a great breakfast of pancakes, fried eggs, oatmeal and a variety of other dishes, we donned our rain gear and headed out for day two. Leaving the rainforest behind we entered the moorland. Low lying shrubs, flowering plants and lots of rocks. Today we would hike to Shira Cave which lies on the Shira plateau. Shira was once a large peak but a volcanic eruption 300 years ago reduced its height and created a large plateau. For most of our 6-hour hike the rains fell intermittently and the mountain was covered in clouds.

The constant rainfall had erupted into dozens of waterfalls on the mountainside which could be seen in the breaks of clouds. We crossed several rivers and walked under the pouring falls of the mountain before arriving at Shira Camp just after lunch. Today we also heard many times the saying “Pole Pole” which in Swahili translates to slowly. Since Kilimanjaro rises to so many feet above sea level it is not the physical demand that sends hikers home but the oxygen in the air or lack thereof. Going at a slow pace is paramount in making it to the top.

Today we had planned on a bonus hike for acclimation but the weather did not cooperate and we instead had an impromptu group party; after a nap of course.

I spent some time wandering around the plateau before dinner. The landscape was beautiful, filled with purple flowering thistles and green mosses it was both colorful and alien with the overlaying fog.

It rained again overnight, but we woke up to clear skies and our first glimpse across Tanzania to see Mount Meru; the second highest mountain in Tanzania located more than 100km away. ​

Day 3 Shira Camp to Lava Tower to Barranco Camp 

Today would be our first big acclimation day we would hike from camp up to Lava tower at 4600 meters, then hike back down to Barranco Camp 3900 meters, in total 10 km. For those that make it through today, reaching the summit is more likely. One of the rules of mountaineering is walk high, sleep low which helps with acclimating your body.

The day began like many, with a light mist, as we left camp and headed towards Lava Tower. The landscape changed as we entered the high moorland. Big boulders were strewn across the landscape of this dormant volcano. Evidence of all the past eruptions could be seen all around. I could definitely feel the air thinning as we hiked higher up the volcano. At around 4300 meters we entered the snow line and were soon following in each other’s footsteps to avoid sinking in. Reaching lava tower I could absolutely feel the thinness of the air.

When I reached camp I realized I was feeling a bit more nauseous and headachy than normal. The altitude was definitely playing with my senses and the quick descent might have been a bit too much. I went to bed early that night feeling thankful that my oxygen level was still in a good range. One of our other women would not be making it to camp, the altitude had been too much and she would be returning to the bottom.

After a good night’s sleep, I rose early and walked around camp taking photos and watching the fog roll in. It’s crazy how quickly the weather can change on the mountain, it can be sunny one moment and within an instant covered in fog or rain.

Day 4 Barranco Wall to Karangu Camp 

After breakfast we headed off for a portion of the trail called the Barranco Wall. It was a challenging climb not so much in difficulty but pace and terrain which made the day very interesting. The trail literally goes straight up a rock wall, porters, climbers and guides all scrambling up single file. Rain made the rocks slippery, the porters with their big packs were often balancing bags on their heads. When we reached the top of this section I was rather relieved. The last few feet of the climb had really tired me out. From the top of the wall we still had a few hours left to hike before reaching camp. Heavy rain fell for much of the rest of the afternoon. We passed through some really neat-looking areas of the mountain, old lava flows and rocky outcroppings were some of the interesting things to look at.

This portion of the hike was rather miserable for me, my pack was hurting my back, it was wet and the trail was slippery. It went up and down and with all the rain the trail became a river in many places along the way. The final jaunt to camp was a steep and rocky climb that I was all too happy to have over. My savior Ali, one of our porters,  always seemed to come for my pack right when I was on my last leg of energy, giving me a very welcome relief.

The misery of the last leg of the hike that day was quickly washed away with singing, dancing and chatting in our mess tent. We even had some evening rainbows and our first clear view of the summit of Kibo Peak. ​

Day 5 & 6 – Karangu to Barafu Camp (Base Camp) to Summit 

The last two days of ascent are really one very long day……
On Day 5 we began our hike like most mornings, in the mist and fog. The trail now in the high alpine desert was filled with huge rocks and we marched on under the shadow of the summit. Quickly re-entering the snow line, the temperatures dropped, the visibility lowered and intermittent snowfall met us throughout the day.

Upon reaching base camp the weather had cleared and I was finally in a better mood, with blue skies it was absolutely beautiful. I could see Mawenzi Peak the third volcano of the three and the summit of Uhuru was also in view between intermittent clouds. The sky was blue and the temperature was a warm 50 F. In a few hours, we would be starting our last and final hike to the summit.

Summit Day on Kilimanjaro 

Reaching the Summit of Kilimanjaro 

I finally reached Stella Point- the sub summit point about half a mile from the top. Several of the other women in our group were already there. Exhausted and drained mentally I fell into a heap thinking I was at the summit.

When Nasiri told me there was more to hike I really felt my heart break. I wanted to turn back, but that wasn’t an option, I had come so far and there was so little left. After being fed and hydrated by one of our lady porters who literally carried a steeping thermos of tea up the mountain. I linked arms with Nasiri and we walked Pole Pole towards the real summit. All I could do was 20 paces before having to stop and breathe deeply, so we worked out a system of 20 paces walking and 10 deep breaths. The air was so thin…. With his help, I made it to the summit. A cried my eyes out when I got there and gave huge hugs to the team that helped me get there. The time was just after 8 am. We stood on top of a huge glacier.

This mountain created by fire and crowned with ice had almost defeated me, but now I stood at the highest summit feeling thankful and happy.

That last night on the mountain was a great one. It is amazing how quickly the struggles of hours earlier are washed away with happiness and accomplishment. The camp was filled with jovial singing and dancing as the sun set over the peak of Kibo. It was still hard to believe that we had climbed the tallest mountain in Africa.

Although this was one of the most difficult things I have done in my life, there is no doubt in my mind that I would do it again. If you are reading this blog, you may in fact have already signed up or been thinking about climbing the tallest mountain in Africa. I say Go For It. It was hard, but it was also one of the best experiences of my life, that I will remember for the rest of my days.

Don’t let my struggles discourage you from heading to Africa. Many women and men also take altitude medicine the most common being Acetazolamide which makes the effects of altitude sickness, like headache, fatigue, nausea and shortness of breath less acute. Personally, I wanted to see my own physical limits and decided against taking anything that would ease my journey. I am not a doctor and would never want to discourage anyone from doing what is right for them. I recommend talking to not only your doctor but your guiding team to decide what’s best for you as Acute Mountain Sickness is serious and can be life-threatening if not properly dealt with. For me, the altitude was extremely challenging but I think my min was my biggest obstacle. After returning home from this journey I have a renewed sense of self and a new determination to make things happen in my life.
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Have you climbed Kili or are you planning a climb? I want to hear from you in the comments below. 

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