Guerneville, Sonoma: Wine Country’s Best Kept Secret

Guerneville Sonoma: The Best of California’s Wine Country

My day began on a quiet, cold morning, with the chirps of birds and the whisper of the wind through the forest. I craned my neck back as far as it could go, looking up into the canopy &  trying to spot the top of Parson Jones. “Hello,” I called happily into the sky. I didn’t get a response, unsurprisingly, as Parson Jones is a tree—a redwood tree to be precise.

At more than 300 feet tall and an estimated 1,300 years old, it is one of the oldest trees in Armstrong Redwood State Park. I had been waiting most of my life to see Redwood trees, who knew my first chance would be on a trip to Northern California’s wine region and a little town called Guerneville, which just so happens to be Sonoma’s best kept secret.

 

Guerneville has turned out to be one of my favorite spots for a laid-back getaway in Wine Country, and while I’m sharing details on why it’s the area’s best-kept secret, I may throw in a few affiliate links that I’ve hand-selected. If you make a purchase through one, I may earn a small commission at no cost to you. 

About Guerneville Sonoma

I traveled up from San Francisco on a cool, star-filled evening as a guest of the Applewood Inn and Spa in Guerneville. To give you a little history, Guerneville has been a popular resort town since the late nineteenth century, when well-off San Franciscans began flocking to the area to enjoy the Redwood-lined riverbanks.

In the ‘70s, it started attracting a primarily gay and lesbian crowd, and today is still a very popular weekend destination for people of all orientations. With a perfect location along the Russian River in the Sonoma valley wine region, Guerneville Sonoma is the perfect combination of all my favorite things.  Staying at an eco-friendly inn was icing on the cake.

The Applewood Inn & Spa

The Applewood Inn & Spa is tucked away on several acres of redwood-lined forest, just a stone’s throw from downtown Guerneville. The fog from the nearby forests had just begun to roll in when I arrived that evening. After snagging my keys from the office I walked into my room, just one of 20, to see the glimmering light of a lit fireplace.

The small exterior patio had its own fire pit, and the room itself featured an oversized king bed, in room jacuzzi and walk in closet. Excited for what looked like would be a fantastic night’s rest, but hungry from a long day, I set out off to town for a bite to eat before it got too late.

Octopus at Seaside Metal in Guerneville

Banana Cake at Seaside Metal in Guerneville

I was pointed to the nearby and newly opened Seaside Metal Oyster Bar after asking around at a nearby bar where I could get some grub. After a fantastic meal of octopus, banana cake, and Pinot Noir, I slipped into my bed for a great night’s sleep and awoke to the faint morning light.

Revival at The Applewood Inn

Course 1 – Coffee crumble with fresh yogurt

Breakfast is served!

The Applewood Inn includes breakfast in your stay, and in the winter months (when I visited), it is reserved exclusively for hotel guests. Breakfast at The Applewood Inn is a two-course farm to table experience. It was one that transported me back in time, to when I was a little girl pressing fresh apple juice with my childhood friends.

That is exactly what happened when I tasted the local gravenstein apple juice that accompanies your breakfast. Coupled with a hibiscus mimosa and organic coffee, you could say that my day was off to a fantastic start. After stuffing myself on a delicious crumb cake with strawberries and greek yogurt, followed by an asparagus and vegetable omelet made of local ingredients, I took a tour of the grounds.

The Applewood Inn courtyard.

Pink cherry blossoms livened up their courtyard and the smell of flowers lingered as I followed the budding fruit trees into their on site garden. ​In the summer, these gardens provide them with most of the herbs and vegetables they use in the kitchen, and the orchards they have on their 6 acres include apple, peach, fig, olive, and other varieties. The organic garden is also home to chickens for fresh eggs and bees for fresh honey, as well as a solar array that provides them with almost all of their electricity needs.

The Applewood gardens.

Wine and Redwood Trees in Guerneville Sonoma

Over the next two days, I indulged in the beauty of my surroundings, explored the forests, tasted amazing wines, and met new friends. I started my day at the Armstrong Redwoods State Park. Located just 10 minutes from the Applewood Inn, it has redwood trees that are well over 200 feet tall! As a New Englander, redwood trees are something I had yet to see in my lifetime.

Stumbling into Armstrong State Park for a morning stroll absolutely took my breath away. There were few people around on the numerous walking trails and the cool morning air with the sounds of birds chirping was just what I needed to invigorate me for a full day of exploring.

Within 30 minutes of the Applewood in either direction are dozens of wineries. There are more than 400 in Sonoma County and I had a lot of favorites.

Some of the most memorable were Moshin Vineyards, which has a great selection of Pinot’s, Syrahs and whites. Nearby is family owned Porter Creek with grapes from Burgundy and the Rhone Valley. This father and son owned vineyard focuses on organic grown pinot noir’s and runs right along the Russian River.

For some inexpensive bubblies, make sure to stop at Korbel, makers of champagnes and brandies. They also have a fantastic deli on site where you can grab an artisan picnic lunch or have a coffee on their outdoor patio.

Heading North to the town of Geyserville, I experienced breathtaking views of wine country and delicious cheese. Trattore Farms features locally milled olive oils and fine estate wines. Stay for a vineyard and orchard tour or  try some of their olive oils paired with a charcuterie cheese from local dairies and farms nearby.

Down the road is Cast Wines, and a seat on their terrace will reward you with amazing views of the vineyards while you sip on a selection of their old world reds and refreshing whites.

After pampering myself with wine and cheese, I returned to The Applewood Inn for an amazing massage at their onsite spa. A dip in the hot tub would soon be needed, but first it was time for a little fun. I headed to town for dinner at Betty Spaghetti and to meet up with some new friends from the R3 Hotel.

Betty Spaghetti is a newer restaurant featuring local ingredients and made from scratch pastas and desserts. I indulged in some angel hair pasta with crab and herbs. Cooked perfectly with large lumps of crabmeat and not overly saucy with the perfect amount of parmesan cheese, it was absolutely delightful.

Thanks to the chef, I also tried all of their desserts. The mint chocolate chip ice cream was delicious, and so was the lemon arancini—which was like a lemon-filled gourmet donut hole. But the winner was the chocolate tarte. Rich, creamy, and fudgy, like it was heaven in my mouth.

Crab and angel hair pasta: Betty Spaghetti

Desserts at Betty Spaghetti

After dinner, Greg, the owner of Betty Spaghetti, told me I should pop into the neighboring bar at the R3. The R3 is the hub for Guerneville’s colorful side and you are sure to find people here having fun at any time of the day. Rodger, the event manager and bartender at the R3 bar, is one of the most flamboyant, fun, and spunky people I had met in a while.

After a big bear hug, I settled in at a stool and relished in the amazing energy. Having fun, overly flirtatious men around is usually a sign for trouble, but at the R3, I had nothing to worry about because the men here were gay. It couldn’t have been more perfect for me. Feeling safe and energized, I met new friends while sipping on a fresh squeezed margarita—one of Rodger’s specialities.

I met amazing people in Guerneville and during my stay at The Applewood Inn & Spa. I had delightful farm to table cuisine, spent my mornings walking in the woods, and my afternoons tasting amazing Pinot Noirs. With its laid back attitude and unpretentious people, Guerneville is very different than its easterly neighbor, Napa Valley, and I quickly fell in love with the landscape and colorful residents.

The byline of my entire trip to the Guerneville area was the people. Everyone I met along the way I will remember forever. They were the type of people you meet and feel like you have known for your whole life. From the fabulous staff at The Applewood to my new friends at the R3 and all the others I met along the way. For a nature-loving, wine-drinking northeastern girl like me, Guerneville was the perfect place and I’ve definitely found my new favorite spot in wine country.

 

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Located along the Russian River in Sonoma the town of Guerneville is a great place to stay while visiting wine country. Explore the redwoods, stay in a B& B, bike to the coast or dine on exquisite food while visiting the lively gay riviera.

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